“Did the first baker in Naples to smear tomato pulp on a patch of dough realize he was starting a cult? He was, and its house of worship in New York is Una Pizza Napoletana. True believers can recite the standing menu of six pies. Some pies bring the pinprick acidity in buffalo mozzarella to the foreground; others hit you with oregano’s mildly druggy aroma of camphor. But above all, the faithful come for the soft, tender, char-freckled crust. It has more integrity and character than some of the people you talk to every day.”